Week 24 rain in Ikara-Flinders Range

With a 12-month contract lined up for me and Jeremy’s work picking up when we arrive home, the only missing piece is a place to hang our dusty travelling hats.

Fortunately, we’ve had a secret weapon – or three. Ruby, Jasper and our mate Franc have been FaceTiming us at house inspections. They looked at a few and we applied for a few and we’ve secured a home cheaper than our last place. It has a yard for Chef the dog, a shed and a spare room. With things falling into place, it feels good to be nearing home. 

On our way to Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park, we pass the beginning of the Strzekecki Track. A sign tells us that several sections are closed, including the Mount Hopeless to Merty Merty section. Another one of those names.

Our first stop in Ikara-Flinders Ranges is Arkaoola Wilderness Sanctuary where my cousins Trude and hubby Pete arrive the day after us. What are the odds?

Jeremy checks the weather; rain’s on its way. We have time to eat a delicious roast lamb and veg on the fire before packing everything away. Snug in the tent, we speak with Jasper as the rain falls and thunder rolls high above in enormous river gums, temps dipping into single digits 

We’ve seen more wildlife in the past week than in the last five months: countless emus, wallabies, an echidna, parrots, hawks and wedge tailed eagles. Emus wander around camp, their jaunty stride and tulle bustle bouncing as they run.

On our first day we linger by the fire. Trude and Pete arrive at Arkaroola in the arvo and we meet for dinner at the restaurant. The next evening we join Trude, Pete and their mates from Armidale and Walcha. We haven't done many walks; it’s mostly been catching up and fireside chats. Feels like we’re nearing the end of the trip. 

Driving out of Arkaroola we find Maryanne stranded with a shredded tyre. She’d been searching for mobile reception before waiting on the road for more than an hour without anyone coming by. It’s her second hire vehicle. The first needed a new radiator before she even left Victoria. And this one doesn’t have a manual so we don’t know where the jack is or how to release the spare from under the car.

Don’t hire from Indie Camper. 

We work out where the jack is and how to release the spare via YouTube, and change the tyre. The Copley mechanic can sort out her tyre today, for a cool $500. She’s sticking to the bitumen now, keen to avoid any further mishaps. 

A couple of hours south, we camp in Parachilna Gorge, 10 kilometres off the bitumen, surrounded by cliffs and ancient river gums. Rain’s coming again so we pack up before retreating to the tent-house suite for the night and later the wind comes in. While we hear it high above we aren't buffeted by it too much.  

Next morning, we give in and book accommodation at the Prairie Hotel. This rain is ruining our stats: I’d hoped to sleep every night of our trip in the trailer but gusting winds, low temps and sodden ground calls for something else. We have a coffee and lunch at the pub and each do some work. The weather is throwing our plans. Our set up is awesome when it’s hot and the sun is out but we didn’t pack awnings for persistent wet weather. 

Still, the storm is spectacular. Jeremy’s keen to capture it so we drive back up the Parachilna Gorge Road, rain hanging low over the range, mountains shrouded in mist and rain, shades of grey across the landscape. Trees glimmer. Everything’s fresh.

We continue south. The next town is Hawker where we fuel up and pop into the Flinders Food Co for excellent coffee and delicious beef tacos. If you’re ever passing through, you must stop here for coffee and food. 

With rain still forecast for the entire region, we don’t have much choice but to embrace the wet and cold. We also don’t want to race away because of it. We’re hardy campers! We call a few of the station stays who warn us that with the rain forecast could mean becoming stuck in the mud. Roads are closing.

We end up at Wilpena Pound cooking in the camp kitchen and sheltering in the tent. 

We’ve been here before, years ago with Jeremy’s parents, Jilli and Don. Then, we flew to Adelaide, hired a car and drove up through Clare Valley. We hijked in sunshine and  took a scenic flight over this vast amphitheatre-like basin landscape. We also visited Sacred Canyon, a significant Adnyamathanha site with petroglyphs, now only accessed with the Traditional Owners. Fair enough. We’ve taken so much these past 250 years. 

Good thing we did it then because this time we hunker down in the restaurant. When the weather clears we buy dry timber and light a fire. Nothing beats a warming winter campfire. Spotted quolls and possums visit us as we enjoy the coals and heat.

The next day we wake to bright sunshine. Keen to explore, we leave the trailer at the beginning of the Brachina Gorge Road which is open only for high clearance vehicles, no towing. It’s a beautiful drive and we spot a lot of Andu, yellow footed rock wallaby, with long yellow boots on each foot and hand, a black ridge on their back and a stripy yellow and black tail and lots of other wallabies too. 

Time to continue homeward. We farewell the ranges and head south, through Cradock with a free camp at the pub – buy a beer, camp for free – but it’s closed. We find a free camp at Native Well Creek along RM WIlliams Way, our last for SA. Another roaring fire. Another forecast of rain.

I’ve been thinking a lot about Mum and Dad on our travels. As an orphan I’m grateful for my kids and often think how they would all love this. 

Where would we be without our family?